Out of curiosity I'm looking them up now, as expensive as paint in most cases and with all the mangy clear coat will stick out like a sore thumb unless I want to do some funky design like carbon fiber to hide it.

DIY look interesting though, I'm still reading up on it.

Very true... There's a really awesome thread that member Roe did while painting his truck. It turned out really nice and he did it with a roller. It's in the truck section I believe. Take a look. He did all the work himself and I think it cost him like $350-500.

if your insurance company won't insure because of paint, i would be looking for a different one. what else won't they "do for you" when the "time comes" ?

why does it need to be painted for insurance? I thought you were going to race it? If you do there is a chance it will get balled up at your 1st event..(AMHIK) unless you are talking about racing traffic cones in a parking lot. Do you have an old hood or door around? I'd practice on that and once you can take the look, try it on the car.

Hagarty and I understand their point of view.

They don't want to insure a car that some would only consider daily driver material as it is specialty insurance. They would like to see before and after pics as proof the car is getting restored, I don't have a problem with that.

If the body shop stepped up as they promised it would be a non-issue and there would not even be a posting here. I have a few irons in the fire though and there might be an alternate in play.

To add to the fun I dragged home a rust free GLHS 2-dr today and a Rampage converted to turbo, the price was too good to pass up.

i understand how it is now. but what happens if it gets damaged racing [parking lot pylons or other type] ? i don't think they have coverage for that. perhaps insure under your daily driver policy until paint/body work is complete ?

I'd hardly file a claim for paint damage caused by hitting a cone at an autocross event, far more concerned with dipsh*ts on the road in CT running into me.

Drove to Maine and back this weekend and it did not improve my opinion of the average driver on the road.

I painted my swinger ten years ago with john deere blitz black out of a $100 gun from autozone- it came out great- no streaks or anything and stayed black parked in the sun for years! Check it out it's a nice satin too not flat but flat enough to not show smudges and fingerprints etc.

I would fix the dent sand it, mask it and wipe it down with degreaser. When it is ready I would prepare to shoot it myself if I couldn't find someone who would shoot it for me. I think if you did it before you will still be able to put a good finish on it. Hardened single stage can be scuffed and buffed if you need to.

I'll say it again since it was ignored the 1st time....sand this car lightly and spray a fresh coat of clear on it.

It was noted but I think the paint is far to gone in spots. Might try it on my truck though as the clear is just starting to go on the roof.

Any delamination/fading needs to be sanded down. The sun will fade the pigments in the paint. Unless you don't care if you can see where the clear is gone now, you need to blow a quick coat of color over before clear.

Epoxy primer = nice new layer to build from

2K primer = level to make sure surface is flat. Will stick to new epoxy

Epoxy primer as sealer = nice coat for paint to stick to, seals over potential different surfaces in the 2K primer as you sand to make it flat

Base = color layer

Clear = extra cost, but level of paint you can sand for flat finish and buff to a shine

---OR---

Hot Rod Black = Great paint but it took a quart just to do my 74 Satellite hood. Like someone said, it is a bear to get even coats. I have only painted 3 cars so I am still a rookie, but that Hot Rod Black was a PITA.

Also you can spray new paint directly over the old paint. Sand the old stuff smooth, feathering it all together and spray it with a single stage acrylic urethane black paint and you're done. You'll have to burn off the last of what's left of the old clear coat, but you won't need to prime it. If anything, spot prime some areas with a rattle can.

Car is in the shop, 7 days.

Back from the body shop, 6 days.

Looks awesome nice goin!

GREAT points made here. Flat or even matte finishes require a 75% to 90% overlap to achieve an even sheen. Less than that will often result in tiger striped sections where the gloss varies from a shine to a flat finish. It cannot be corrected by sanding either, the panels have to be repainted.

Now you need a decal kit!

Looks good so far.

On order.